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Alaska Science Forum: Finding old friends in the ‘Big Lonely’

I walked around the chain-link fence of Pump Station 12 of the trans-Alaska pipeline, apprehensive about the human encounter to come.

It was time to send a weekly column. I needed a Wi-Fi signal or a cellular bar or two. I had walked more than a week through air devoid of communications waves.

With Cora on a leash and me having not spoken to anyone all day, I reached the gate of the pump station. No one was there. No guard at the shack behind the fence. The green buildings, which looked like an occupation base on Mars in their best days, bled with rusty stains. The place had a post-apocalyptic feel.

There was a phone inside a box near the fence. I picked it up. Before it rang twice, a security guard named Jeff answered.

Jeff was sitting at a desk in Anchorage. He did not laugh when I asked about Wi-Fi, but he might have smiled.

“You’re in the Big Lonely,” he said. “There’s not much around Pump 12.”

The decommissioned pump station was quiet, its turbine engines no longer needed to push a smaller volume of crude oil down to the Valdez terminal. There were two heavy-equipment operators inside the compound moving snow with loaders, but there seemed to be no one in the buildings.

The stunning mountain-and-waterfall country between Valdez and Glennallen was a lively place 20 years ago. The last time I walked this path, I met people and stopped to chat every day. This time, there have been days I have not talked with anyone but Cora.

Is that a product of timing, with me starting my hike before summer visitors arrive? Or have people moved out?

Since 1997, Alaska’s population has increased, from about 613,000 then to 737,000 today. But most of those people have moved into Alaska’s cities. In the Valdez-Cordova Census Area through which I walked, there were fewer people in 2013 than in 2000, according to researchers with the state of Alaska.

“It’s the bleeding of the Bush,” said my friend Doug Vollman, whom I sought out near Copper Center. Vollman and his daughter Taylor hosted me and Cora for an enjoyable day and night on his farm. It’s a hay-scented place of open fields and darting swallows, with a resident great gray owl.

Vollman, with whom I golfed on his homemade muskeg course 20 years ago, thinks the lack of jobs in the area have led to people moving out. His wife, Marnie, is in Jackson, Miss., for a two-month training program with her employer, the Bureau of Land Management. He grows vegetables for area farmers markets and drives a travel van from Glennallen to McCarthy.

From Vollman’s house, I hiked one day to the aspen hilltop home of Mike and Lanette Phillips. The Phillipses, whom I also met 20 years ago and wrote about in my book “Walking my Dog, Jane,” said a good barometer of population change was the health of local schools.

Lanette, who worked in the home-school program with Copper River School District for 18 years, used her fingers to count area schools that had closed in the last two decades due to enrollment dropping to fewer than 25 students: Chistochina, Copper Center, Gakona, Paxson and the Lottie Sparks School in Nelchina. Only schools in Glennallen and Slana remain open.

So maybe the quietness of this stretch is the real deal. In a world of 7.5 billion people, expected to increase to more than 11 billion by the end of the century, a place going the other way seems significant.

But my solitary stretch seems to have ended, with visits to friends met by chance 20 years ago and a few spontaneous meetings. Thanks to LJ and Logan for the coffee at 46-Mile, bear hunters Josh and Fred for another mug at a highway crossing, my friend Elizabeth Schafer for feeding me lunch on her way to McCarthy from Anchorage. And whoever left me the bag of snacks near the Tonsina River.

And, of course, Doug and Taylor Vollman, along with Mike and Lanette Phillips.

These guys haven’t seen me in 20 years, but they pulled me in like a lost brother. They have fed me, let me shower and wash clothes. With a few phone calls, Mike even enabled my crossing of the Tazlina River, finding a loaner packraft on deadline (thanks to John Rigo).

Staying with these friends the past few days, I’ve appreciated what they like about the Big Lonely: It’s full of good neighbors you don’t see all the time, but always show up when you need them.

See the evidence presented in the William Sandeson murder trial so far

Nova Scotia

Sandeson on trial in Halifax for 1st-degree murder in death of Dalhousie student Taylor Samson

CBC News[1] 3 Hours Ago

A large amount of evidence has been introduced at the first-degree murder trial of William Sandeson, who is accused of killing fellow Dalhousie University student Taylor Samson. The prosecution alleges Samson was killed during a drug deal at Sandeson’s south-end Halifax apartment. Samson’s body has not been found. Pictured below are some of the exhibits from the ongoing trial in Nova Scotia Supreme Court, which began last month.

The first are photos taken by police following Sandeson’s arrest on Aug. 19, 2015.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Police photo of Sandeson. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Police photo of Sandeson’s back. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Police photo of an abrasion on Sandeson’s shoulder. (Court exhibit)

Evidence so far in the trial points to Samson being killed in Sandeson’s apartment on Henry Street in Halifax.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

This is a diagram of Sandeson’s Halifax apartment. The room on the left was his bedroom. (Court exhibit)

Police found a duffel bag full of blood-stained cash in Sandeson’s bedroom when they searched his apartment.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

One of the blood-stained $20 bills found in Sandeson’s apartment. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

(Court exhibit)

The Crown has said Samson went to Sandeson’s apartment to sell him 20 pounds of marijuana.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

An image from security video at Sandeson’s apartment showing Taylor Samson arriving. (Blair Rhodes/CBC)

Following Samson’s disappearance and Sandeson’s arrest for murder, the marijuana was turned over to police by a lawyer. Court has heard Sandeson had left it at his younger brother’s apartment.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

This marijuana was turned over to police. (Blair Rhodes/CBC)

Police also found a 9-mm Smith & Wesson handgun, along with ammunition, in a safe in Sandeson’s bedroom.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Police told court that they found several items inside Sandeson’s safe, including a 9-mm Smith and Wesson handgun and a box of ammunition with two shells missing. (CBC)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Police say the gun was found with one bullet in the chamber. (Court exhibit)

An RCMP expert analyzed photos of the gun and has testified that minute droplets of blood on the weapon indicate it had been used to shoot someone at a very close range.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

An RCMP expert said the droplets on the gun were blood. (Court exhbit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

(Court exhibit)

Police also searched Sandeson’s family farm in the Truro area. There they found an abandoned ice-cream truck with a number of pieces of evidence inside.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

A police photo of the ice-cream truck. (Blair Rhodes/CBC)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Inside the truck was a sports bag. There were also garbage bags containing a shower curtain, blue tarp and towels. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Inside one of the garbage bags was a shower curtain. A DNA expert has testified that victim Taylor Samson’s blood was on it. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

A tarp inside on the garbage bags also tested positive for Samson’s blood. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

This duffel bag was found inside the sports bag. It had Samson’s blood on it and a police officer also testified it had a rotten smell. (Blair Rhodes/CBC)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

The trial has heard the towels inside one of the garbage bags were wet. (Court exhibit)

Police seized a backpack Sandeson was wearing when they arrested him. Inside was a new shower curtain.

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

This backpack was taken from Sandeson during his arrest. (Court exhibit)

See The Evidence Presented In The William Sandeson Murder Trial So Far

Police said they found this new shower curtain inside the backpack. (Court exhibit)

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References

  1. ^ CBC News (www.cbc.ca)

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